Places to see and note on the Lagos Island.
Bordered by five cowries creek a lagoon and washed by waters from the Atlantic Ocean Lagos provides a truly resplendent view from an overhead flight and an interesting walkabout tour.
Some notable sites are;
The National Museum is rich with ‘Nok’ culture and ‘terra cotta’ works from ancient Nupe Kingdom in central Nigeria. The Museum grounds are adorned with conical stones ‘Akwanshi’ from Cross Rivers State and a bronze work of Ben Enwonwu (see below) the ‘rising sun’ or ‘Ayanwu’ in Ibibio.
At the Nitel building, there is a sculpting of commissioned work of the legendary Ben Enwonwu, a famed sculptor. Enwonwu worked for Queen Elizabeth II who posed for him at the London studios in the 1950’s.
Parallel to the water front in central Lagos is the inner Marina. Sitting prominently there is the stately ‘state house’ a more recent creation of the residences of past colonial administrators called ‘Consuls’ and later, ‘Governors’ (from Captain Alfred Moloney to George Robertson).
The house was redeveloped in the 1970’s by British architect Robin Atkinson. This house is now one of the official residences of the President of Nigeria. Next to this is yet another stately colonial mansion once the residence of the assistant to the governor of Lagos Colony. It is now one of the official residences of the Governor of Lagos.
In addition to this array of colonial structure is the old secretariat built in 1906 to house the entire colonial government of southern Nigeria
On Joseph Street is the First Baptist church built in 1886. The street derives its name from Joseph Harden, a Baptist missionary former slave who founded the church. He had earlier in 1885, purchased his freedom and come to Lagos with his wife Sarah, a Sierra-Leonean immigrant.
Oil Mill Street derives its name from the fact that oil mill was located on the Marina.
Catholic Mission Street is home to the first Roman Catholic missionaries in Nigeria. The Holy Cross Cathedral was built between 1932-1934 to replace an original structure that had been constructed in 1878. French priests were involved in the original concept and this fact explains the ‘Fleur de lis’ embossed on the buildings.
City Hall still houses the municipal government operations.
King’s College Lagos buildings spread languidly over this leafy area.
King’s College, a school with considerable prestige and a long tradition as its colonial structure reveals, was founded in 1909. This is the beginning of a square block of central significance to modern Nigeria.
The remembrance arcade opposite the school holds a war memorial to the military servicemen of World War 1 and World War 2.
Across the street is the High Court and Court of Appeal (formerly Supreme Court).
Back across the street is Tafawa Balewa Street named after the country’s first Prime Minister, Sir Abubakar Tafawa Balewa. The Tafawa Balewa Square, (TBS) is a substantial complex with shops bars and restaurants within. Alongside it is the racecourse, a hangover from the days when horse-racing was a popular sport in Lagos and the courses and stables were within view.
Lower Marina is a commercial area of central business district in Lagos.
At the turn of the 20th century until 1913, a tram service was a major mode of transportation. Many journeys to Europe began from Lagos harbour on Elder Dempster ships. Elder Dempster was a shipping line and had its offices at 47 Marina. The bank office on the Marina side of the ground floor was originally the passenger booking office.
Probably, one of the most visible national heritage sites is Cathedral Church of Christ once known as Christ Church. The foundation of the first church at this site was laid in 1867 and designed by J. Bagan Benjamin, a Sierra Leonean, (Saro) immigrant and outstanding architect. This church was the focal point of the English Church Missionary Society’s efforts in Lagos and much of southern Nigeria.
Indeed, Bishop Samuel Ajayi Crowther, the first black African bishop is buried within the church grounds at his death in 1893. The present church was begun in 1925 and dedicated in 1947. It is built in a basic late 18th century European Gothic Renaissance, with many Brazilian decorative features added. The interior woodwork follows European styles and the main pulpit was dedicated in 1929. The Church grounds hold the remains of Bishop Samuel Ajayi Crowther, the first black African, Anglican Bishop, who died in 1893.
Behind the cathedral are the old Church Missionary Society Bookshop and press buildings. The bookshop was established in 1869 by Anglican missionaries as a part-time project in their living quarters in Broad Street, a printing press was later established in the 20th century. The CMS Bookshop is a good source of school textbooks and stationery, the area is also well known for its booksellers whose stalls line the streets in the area.
Tinubu Square, embedded in the middle of Broad Street is a confluence of Lagos monuments, both old and new. The Square houses a now obsolete fountain. The fountain was given to the new Nigeria at independence in 1960 by the resident Lebanese community and placed in what was then called Independence Square. The square was later renamed Tinubu Square after a famous trader, Madam Efunroye Tinubu of Abeokuta who was prominent in the 1880s. Madam Tinubu was an adversary of the British Colonial Government and was banished by the government to her native Abeokuta – ostensibly for her slave trading activities.
Further up Broad Street is the tomb of Chief Daniel Conrad Taiwo aka ‘Taiwo Olowo’ and the African Cathedral Bethel across the street.
The African Cathedral was the tallest building in Lagos at its completion in 1928. Its architectural style is linear and in a modified Gothic motif. The main wooden doors of the church are beautiful with biblical scenes. The establishment of the church was at the core of the African Church movement which began around 1888 when an all African independent congregation was desired by the educated African elite. Lagos became the centre of this inter denominational church movement in the late 1890s. The core philosophy was Afro-centric worship and the movement promoted the use of indigenous music and song as a medium of worship, a tradition which it continues today.
Taiwo Olowo’s tomb was built in 1901. Chief Taiwo was of Oyo ancestry and rose to prominence in Lagos in the 19 century. The monument is the work of Joas Baptist da Costa.
The new Tom Jones building rises on the corner of Nnamdi Azikiwe and Idumagbo Streets. The original house which stood on the site built by Mr. Tom Jones (born Opebiyi Fabiyi). Its upper floors were originally used as a library and meeting hall. At his death in 1913, Tom Jones left the house to the people of Lagos for their common use and has since been rebuilt. This continues to be a library and meeting hall for public use in the building.
The monument to Chief Sogunro is a real find across the road from the grand and dazzling Lagos Central Mosque on Nnamdi Azikiwe Street. The monument is well hidden by luggage stalls, but discreet enquiries can get you there. The monument is a well preserved statue of Sogunro, an advisor and friend of King Dosunmu of Lagos in what appears to be white marble. The building and shops which surround the statue belong to the Sogunro family.
The much treasured Shitta Bey Mosque comes up on Martins Street. The mosque was constructed by Mohammed Shitta Bey, a wealthy Saro merchant in 1892. To construct it, he hired repatriated artisans and is reported to have cost the princely sum of ₤3,000. The ground level building possesses much fine detail in the mouldings around the doorways and windows and dainty little tiles on its façade.
At Gerber Square is Maja House at Number 2, another house built in the Brazilian style and faces Breadfruit Street. The Maja House has existed since the area was a favoured residential area. The original house is still preserved in this little square but is now used as shops. The house was built by Mr Oni Gbaragbo in 1895 and bought in 1832 by Dr Akinola Maja, after whom the house is now called.
On Taiwo Street past Gerber Square is Iga Taiwo, the Taiwo family compound (of the Taiwo Monument described earlier). This building also keeps its original look but has recently been given a new lick of paint.
On Kakawa Street off Broad Street at 12 is the da Rocha family house popularly known as ‘Water House’ which was built for Jao da Rocha in 1875. The house was named for the water which the family sold from their well during water shortages in Lagos. Additions were made to the original house in 1910 and then a complete remodeling was done and additions made to that in the 1960s. The house is still owned by the family, some of whom live there now.
Another trail just off Tinubu Square starting from a point adjacent to the Central Bank Offices begins with another opulent landmark of Victorian Lagos Architecture. Olaiya House was built in 1888, a prime example of Victorian, Brazilian architectural design in Lagos. The elaborate painted mouldings are typical elements of the Brazilian style. The ornate metal work on the windows and the statue in the middle of the arcade along the roof top are special features of this building.
Famous Campos Square, a newly renovated centerpiece was the nucleus of the Brazilian ‘Aguda’ community in Lagos. Portugese-speaking Lagosians are long gone from these parts, nor is there Samba music blaring on the streets. Followers of Oba Kosoko, a king of Lagos, who were allowed to return to the city after exile in Epe also put down roots in this area.
Bordering Campos Square is the Doherty Villa which still functions as a residence today.
On Igbosere Road further up from Campos Square at No 21 is a well preserved house with Brazilian style features, a high façade and a beautiful entrance. The building is no longer used for residential purposes. It was once the business place of a Chemist and Druggist whose plaque rested on the front door.
